Fehr Trade: Book Review: Patternmaking for Underwear Design, by Kristina Shin . PDF lingerie sewing pattern for an underwire bra by OrangeLingerie Free. Patternmaking for Underwear Design 2nd Edition is a comprehensive patternmaking guide suitable for students, teachers and the industry. Step-by- step. Through an investigation of the origins of underwear in general, and the bra in in design, patternmaking, and technology from the first recorded uses of from: montilebettaa.ga [Accessed 1 April.
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underwear. Place 1-inch wide This measurement depends on bra design and is up to you; if .. Patterns for bra cups can be designed in many ways. You can. *FREE* shipping on qualifying offers. Patternmaking for Underwear Design 2nd Edition is a comprehensive patternmaking guide suitable for students. Format: PDF / ePub / site. Patternmaking for Underwear Design is the most comprehensive patternmaking for underwear guide available.
Usually, degree angle to the straight or crossgarments made of woven fabric use the grain. This degree angle line is calledwarp or straight grain up and down the true bias.
When a garment is cut with thebody. Garments hang well when cut out true bias up and down on the body, theof fabric this way, as long as the pattern garment will stretch and cling to the body. This is one way to make garments fit a wider range of figure types just as knitsCross Grainline do, but it uses more fabric per garment and can be difficult to sew without get-After the loom has been set with warp ting ripples or stress lines on the seams.
Agrain yarns you begin to weave the weft strip of bias fabric may be used to bindgrain yarns or cross grain.
These yarns garment edges or finish off raw edgesrun across the width of the fabric from side of seams. The grainline can beparallel to the straight drawn in various places on the pattern, grain and selvages depending on whether the garment is cut on the straight, cross, or bias grainline; however, when placing the pattern on a piece of fabric, the grainline drawn on the pattern piece is always laid parallel to the straight grain and selvages of the fabric.
Since most fashion manufacturers expect to make multiple copies of their designs,. You can use special electric tools or computerized Figure 1. Because of this, you should refrain from making Pattern pieces have grainlines drawn on patterns with very odd shapes, extremely them, so they are plac.
The grain- the production process difficult, if not line is drawn as a straight line that runs impossible. Each pattern should have a style number. This number usually has some significance.
For instance, the first number may tell you what year or season the style was created; the second number may tell you whether the garment is a shirt, pant, or jacket; and the last two numbers may indicate the style itself. When drafting first patterns you usu- any write the name of the pattern piece for easy recognition such as shirt front or col- lar.
YouFigure 7. It may also be used to reduce retain their shape. An 2-selfinterlining might be used to give extraweight and stability to a garment, or itmight be used as insulation in coldweather wear such as batting in a skijacket.
An underlining fab-ric layer might also be used in some gar-ments to add stability to flimsy self fabricsor additional support across the upperback of a jacket. Fashion manufacturers have theirown systems to label and color code pat-tern pieces. A color code is providedbelow. You may customize your colorcode system. Figure 1.
This results in seams on woven garments. To indicate this seams and very curvy seams such as fac-type of cut layout, draw a foldline against ings and necklines. Knit garments arecenter back. All of these amountsing on the seam finish. Most fashion vary by the types of machines and fabrics used. There are many different types of allowance on edges of garments sewn with hem finishes, and the measurement of hem this type of machine.
Book Review: Patternmaking for Underwear Design
Three-thread over- allowances can vary accordingly. The fol- lock seams are commonly used on knits lowing are just a few types of hem finishes: that do not ravel; therefore, the raw edges are not trimmed by the blade.
The most narrow hem finish is the roll Corners Determined by Different Factors hem, which can be sewn on a three- thread overlock machine by setting Figure 1. To simplify the cutting process, seam tightening the tension of the upper allowance shapes in the corners can be looper. There are some machines, extensions of the curves of the pattern.
To simplify the sewing process, seam the edges with the machine's blade. This narrow hem finish is used with allowance shapes in the corners can be very lightweight fabrics, such as silk folded and shaped in the direction in handkerchiefs. Baby hems, which are very narrow, use 3. They can be sewn using a straight- process is to sguare the seams.
In some stitch machine and a special presser instances this will show the seam foot attachment that rolls the fabric as allowance depth without a notch. This you sew. This hem is used only on also matches seams that are sewn to lightweight fabrics. These are sewn using a straight-seam allowance shaped stitch machine and can be used for to be pressed back lightweight to heavyweight fabrics.
Usually the raw edge of the fabric is folded the desired depth, and a coverstitch machine is used; a cover- stitch machine shows two or three rows of straight stitches on the outside of a garment and has an overcast of stitches on the inside of the garment finishing off the raw edge. For a more expensive-looking hem use Figure 1. The hem communication on garments in the form depth should be 1 inch to 2 inches of notches.
Notches are clips or slices cut deep. A blind-stitch machine may be into the seam allowance on a pattern used on pant or coat hems. These let the person sewing the garment know whether theFigure 1. These let the person sewing the garment know whether the Figure 1. This is done by adding one more jacketnotch to each seam as it goes around thebody. Notches also mark the width of adart, pleat, or tuck, or can be used to con-trol the placement of gathers.
Notchesmay also be used to indicate seamallowance width. However, not all manu-facturers use notches to mark seam allow-ances. It can be costly to have severalnotches on each pattern piece. Althoughone notch is cut through all the layers atonce, it is possible to cut notches toodeep, so use them sparingly. Punchholes in fabric are made with an awl. Since you are making holes in the gar-ment, they need to be placed so they willbe hidden.
Punchholes are marked on pattern pieces with ascrew punch, which punches out tinyholes. To mark a double-ended dart, themiddle section of the dart intake or dart 1. Heavy paper manila paper for slopers and production pat- Screw punch to make tiny punch holes in paper patterns to terns mark punch hole placement2.
Muslin Push pins Weights to hold pattern pieces in place while they are being 3. Straight metal rulers in various lengths: 36,48, and 60 inches traced or to keep markers in place 5.
Pattern paper, solid paper in white or other light colors Marker paper, which has a printed grid with letters and num- 6. Tissue paper lightweight, pliable paper used to test pattern bers, also called dot paper fit Notcher 7.
Hard pencils, which leave a finer line than soft ones Pattern snips for cutting heavy pattern paper which to put a pattern hook Rotary cutter you need a surface you can cut on such as 8. Tape measure 9. Straight pins, size 17 Styrene ljinch thick sheet Colored pencils or pens for color coding and for corrections on Hip curve, metal or plastic, also called vary form curve rule See-through plastic ruler 18 inches by 2 inches with a lja-inch patterns Fabric scissors, which you should use only for fabric so that grid spacing Pattern hooks to store a completed pattern and its pattern they stay sharp longer Paper scissors, which you should use only for paper since it chart in front Needlepoint tracing wheel dulls the blades more quickly than fabric Awl to make tiny holes through fabric to mark punch hole Circle template for drawing button or snap placement on patterns Plastic curves in various shapes placement It's easier to work with a first patterns.
You can also use solid paperbody form than with a live person. You in white or any other light color.
Book Review: Patternmaking for Underwear Design
It's usefulcan't poke pins into a person. You can't to be able to see marks through the paperremove their arms to make certain pat- when it's folded. Alternatively, a personcan tell you if something feels uncomfort- Tissue Paperable.
They can sit, walk, bend over, and This paper is handy to test the fit of a pat-raise their arms. This is very helpful when tern draft before you cut it in fabrictest fitting a garment to see if people can because it is so pliable. I t almost fits overmove in it comfortably. I t is best to use a curves as if it were fabric.
If a body form with legs Heavy Pattern Paperis not available, you will need to find a This paper has several names such asmodel to fit these styles. This paper comes in various widths and weights. This is used as a substi There are severalweights of muslin to represent various Q. If your fashionfabric stretches, muslin cannot be used as. As today's average person. As you are proba-you work through the chapters in this text bly aware, people have continued to growyou will take what you've learned in this larger and taller over the centuries, partic-chapter and apply it to the pattern styles ularly in the last few decades.
Each chapter and each patternstyle in this text builds upon what was 1. When using a marker to cut out gar-learned previously. A pattern maker must havea full-scale body form or a live fit model 2. How may fabric that does not stretchThe pattern maker's choice of model iscrucial in determining the garment's end and that is cut with the straight grainuse.
To become a custom clothier, you running up and down the body fitmay use a potential customer live model closely and smoothly over the con-as a fit model and may wish to work tours of the adult male body?
If you wish 4. Will a fabric that does not stretch onto work for a fashion manufacturer that the straight grain stretch at least aproduces standard-size clothing, you small amount on the bias grainline? Does the cross grain of a piece of fabricurements that match a standard sample run parallel or at a degree angle tosize so the garments fit as many people as the selvages?
Does the grainline drawn on a pattern piece run parallel or at a degree The size charts in Table 2. Taking Measurements, 2Body Forms, and Live ModelsThe ability to take accurate measurements Note: For grading purposes, it isfrom body forms and live models is an best to work with a sample sizeimportant skill that all patternmakers closest to the middle of your sizeshould possess. In many ways, working range.
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If you make custom cloth-with a body form is easier than working ing, your model's size does notwith a live model because you can stick matter. Live models need to be treated full-scale model for fitting patterns andgently, with respect, and they are liable to garments. The patternmaker must takegain or lose weight.
However, your final very precise measurements from the fitgarment created on a body form will also model and record them for future use.
Live models are These measurements are used to draft veryvery valuable because they can sit, walk, basic pattern pieces called slopers, whichbend, and thus tell you if the garment you are the subject of chapter 3.
The slopershave made is comfortable and practical. Measurements must be takenMen's size. The designs shown in this from a body form or live model carefully,textbook are based on a Men's size 40 keeping in mind that any mistakes will bechest.
However, the styles may be applied transferred onto the patterns and willto many other sizes. The instructions in cause fit problems. If you wish to makethis textbook will help you to proportion patterns based on your measurements,the pattern styles to whateve size you are have someone else measure you.
It is veryworking with. Several charts of measure- difficult to take your own measurementsments are included in chapter 3 to help accurately. If your model's Checklist for Takingsize is not included in the charts,just look Measurementsat the increments between sizes and addor subtract these to arrive at the measure- 1. Select a body form or live model; youment for the size you need. Check the size will need a body form with legs or a fitcharts in Table 2. If you shorts.
To measure a body form you will need Figure 2. So this book is not great for quick reference. Some sewing books refer to them as slopers but block is the industry term. Then there are drafting instruction for 12 different bras. Instructions for drafting corsets, briefs, sleepwear and some knitwear is also included making this a fairly useful book.
I hope this first impression is helpful for anyone on the fence about downloading this book. Please check back to see what I end up drafting from these instructions for the true litmus test.
I will be doing a comparison test of sorts. Stay tuned. Thanks for the peek at the book! I just ordered last week and it should be here any day now.
I It was the grading section I was most interested in.
I have the first edition, so I will be interested in what is new. Yeah I like book reviews that just have pictures of the pages. Speaking of grading I was overjoyed to find a new book on grading in general. Now if only I can find my grading ruler. Oi tudo bem.
Eu quero muito esse livro.To simplify the sewing process, seam the edges with the machine's blade. I t is best to use a curves as if it were fabric. These let the person sewing the garment know whether the Figure 1.
These are sewn using a straight-seam allowance shaped stitch machine and can be used for to be pressed back lightweight to heavyweight fabrics. Shin's method enables novice patternmakers to create various bra designs from scratch with commercial fit quality.